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Hidden Power Newsletter
May, 2005, Vol.14
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The Original Newsletter for Photoshop Elements Users

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IN THIS ISSUE
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Toys for Elements 3 users released this month:
     • Some Old, Familiar, FREE Tools for Photoshop Elements 3
     • The (Very Cool) Hidden Power Infrared Tool
     • How-to install actions in Elements 3


BUY IT NOW:
Find all the things you need to work with Elements to the max.


FAQ


LONG ANSWERS (6)


SHORT ANSWERS (21)


OPINIONS


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NEW TOOLS FOR ELEMENTS 3
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After some inexplicable trouble with the website (that came down to a single space in the code...) the Hidden Power Elements 3 site is up, rebuilt, and navigable for all: http://hiddenelements.com. This site does not leave Elements 2 users behind, it just adds a dimension for Elements 3. This month I was able to add a few new tools for Elements 1, 2 AND 3. These include the brand-new Hidden Power Infrared tool, the free Bud's Frames for Elements 3, and a how to on running Photoshop actions in Elements. There are new immediate downloads for most tools, and more stuff to follow quickly in the coming weeks. Check out the current list of downloads on the website.

The Hidden Power Infrared tool was added this past month at the request of users. The Infrared tool makes the most of converting RGB color images to mimic black-and-white infrared. Infrared effects have some distinct characteristics, like glowing foliage, black skys and water, film grain, and a dramatic "other-worldly" feel. To shoot true infrared effects, you will likely have to use film, but the Infrared tool is a good digital substitute, with the ability to adjust results in a way that isn't possible when shooting IR film.

Bud's Frames A for Elements 3 are a set of 22 picture frame effects for images developed by Bud Guinn. These actions have been updated from the actions released for Elements 2. There is no limitation on image size, for example. The effects should install to and work in Elements 1 and 2, but I haven't tested. Feel free to send me your results! Elements 1 and 2 users will have similar frames when using the Hidden Power Actions tools.

I also posted a tutorial on How to Run Photoshop Actions in Adobe Photoshop Elements. I am hoping that some industrious persons will scour the internet for actions and report back on which can be used with Elements as is. collecting a list of actions that don't work will keep people from re-testing the same stuff, and will help develop a target list of actions for conversions. I'll post the results on the website and in the newsletter.

New tools on the horizon, anmd likely due out in the next month include: a Curves Tool & Channel Target combo (more to it than meets the description), a new base free tool set for Elements 3 with some exclusive tools rolled in (like simple curves), a tool set for foreign language versions of Elements, two more bud's frame sets for Elements 3 (B and C), and two styles sets from Al Ward.

One thing about this issue of the newsletter that you may have already noticed: newsletter is now all HTML, In fact, I have converted ALL the back issues to HTML so it will be easier for everyone to access them from the website. This change will allow for me to add images, hot links, and more interesting formatting for the coming issues. Don't be fooled by expensive imitations: the Hidden Power newsletter for Photoshop Elements was the first, and will continue to be the best. It will also continue to be free. If you haven't read past issues, you can get all 13 online. FREE.

Please send questions and requests as they arise! thebookdoc@aol.com One more planned enhancement to the website is a request line. This will be up before the end of the month.

Logo Competition: The Jensen Creative Worst Logo Competition: Do you have one of the worst logos ever? Do you know a business or client that has a rotten logo that needs another? Here is a chance for someone to get a complete company makeover and branding for free. Find out more about the Jensen- Creative competition. Entry is free.

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BUY IT NOW
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Below is a list of products that are useful for those who work with Photoshop Elements.

Adobe Programs:
Get Photoshop Elements (for PC):
http://aps8.com/ elements3.html
Get Photoshop Elements (for Mac):
http://aps8.com/ elements3mac.html

Books:
Get The Hidden Power of Photoshop Elements 3:
http://aps8.com/ hppe3.html
Get The Hidden Power of Photoshop Elements 2:
http://aps8.com/ hppe.html

Tools:
Get the Hidden Power tool set for Elements 3 (the same set that comes with the book, without the book):
http://www.sybex.com/sybexbooks.nsf/booklist/5028
Free, downloadable Hidden Power tools:
http:// hiddenelements.com/downloads.html
Hidden Power Infrared:
http:// hiddenelements.com/Mend
Hidden Power Mend (Healing tool):
http:// hiddenelements.com/Mend
Hidden Power Dynamic Image:
http:// hiddenelements.com/dynamic

Equipment:
Calibrate with ColorVision Spyder (complete package):
http://aps8.com/ calibrate.html
Calibrate with ColorVision Spyder (just the Spyder):
http://aps8.com/ spyder.html
Kensington Expert Mouse (what I use for image editing):
http://aps8.com/ trackball.html
Kodak DX 7630 Digital Camera (point-and-shoot recommended in issue 13):
http://aps8.com/ kodak.html
Canon Digital Rebel (midrange SLR recommended in this issue):
http://aps8.com/ canonrebel.html


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FAQ
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These questions continue to be frequently asked since the last issue.

--
Q: I try to install, see a DOS screen flash, and the installation seems to fail. Where can I get an installer that works?

A: The flash you see is the installer doing its job. The Hidden Power tools are already installed. Restart Elements, and you'll find them in the Effects palette.

--
Q: Please provide the password for installing the Hidden Power of Photoshop Elements.

A: Please read the introduction to the book...you'll find what you are looking for, along with some other handy information.

--
Q: I can't install the tools, can you help?

A: There is extensive troubleshooting information on the website. Please visit the site and try all the solutions. If you still have trouble, please let me know.


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LONG ANSWERS
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1. Installing Actions in Elements 3
2. Should Layers be Grayed for .bmp Files?
3. What Happened to the Hidden Power Website (hiddenelements.com)?
4. How Can I Make a JPEG Web Image Transparent?
5. Medium-priced Digital Camera Recommendation?
6. Are You Nutz, Richard?


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1. Installing Actions in Elements 3
-

Is it possible to run Photoshop actions in Elements? I have seens
some actions for Photoshop that I would like to try, but I can't for the
life of me see how to install these in Elements.

You can run certain actions in Photoshop Elements. This is originally what I released the Hidden Power Actions tool to do. Later on when Adobe cut off access to the way I implemented that tool set, I decided to install tools through the Effects palette. This actually still works in Elements 1, 2 and 3, and requires no knowledge of HTML or XML. In other words, you don't need to know any code to get it done.

I've written up a set of steps here to give you a little more than the basics. A full-blown whitepaper on running actions in Elements can be found on the hiddenelements.com website: How To Run Actions in Adobe Photoshop Elements 3, 2 and 1

1. Locate or create an action that you want to run in Elements.
Actions for Elements can be found on the web, or you can create them yourself — if you have access to Photoshop (6, 7 and CS). Action files work on both Mac and PC, without alteration. Save the action file into a folder that is named to categorize the action.

2. Set Up the Action Preview.
The action preview image is the key to launching your action in Elements. This image file displays in the Effects palette and points Elements to the action you are attempting to run. Photoshop actions that you download from the internet will not have this preview image, so you will have to create the preview in order to kick off your actionin Elements.

a. Open Photoshop Elements.

b. Create a new image that is 64 by 64 pixels. Do this by choosing New from the File menu (File > New), or by pressing Command/ CTRL+N (Mac/PC) on your keyboard. When the New dialog appears, enter the name for the action, change the dimensions to 64 by 64 pixels and make the mode RGB.

c. Design your preview image as desired. This image can be changed later on after you run the action and are sure that it works. In fact you can use a sample of what the action does to create the preview after you run it. After you have created the look you want flatten the image (you may want to save the file with layers before flattening).

d. After flattening the image, open the Layers palette and double-click the Background layer. This will open the New Layer dialog. Change the Name of the layer to match the name of the action that you want it to run.

e. Save the file as a Photoshop document in the folder where you saved the action (.atn). When saving be sure that the option for Save Layers is checked.

3. Install the Action Folder in Elements.
You will need to locate the Effects folder in the Elements program folder. The Effects folder is located in slightly different places on PC ( C:\ Program Files\adobe\Photoshop Elements 3.0\Previews\Effects) and Mac (Applications: Adobe Photoshop Elements 3: Previews: Effects). Copy or move the entire category folder that you created in Step 1 into the Effects folder in Elements. After you have added the action category folder to the Effects folder, you have effectively installed the action. All that is left to do is make Elements recognize the new files and run the action.

4. Delete the Effects Cache folder.
To delete the Cache folder, just dump it in the trash and empty the trash. It is best to do this when the Elements program is not running. When you restart Elements it will look for the Cache, and when it doesn't find it it will rebuild according to what is in the Effects folder. In effect this forces Elements to recognize the new files you have installed.

5. Restart Elements.
Restart Photoshop Elements (e.g., from your desktop shortcut). If the Effects palette is not visible, open the palette by selecting it from the Window menu from the menu bar in Elements. If using Elements 3, choose Effects from the drop list at the upper left of the palette. With the Effects palette in view, allow Elements some time to rebuild the cache and display. Depending on how many items you have in the Effects, this can take a while. Be patient. When rebuilding activity seems to stop, take a look for your new action by viewing the list, or by selecting the category from the drop list. If the action appears in the list, you are ready to run it.

6. Run the Action.
To run the action, be sure an image is open, and double-click the thumbnail in the listing. An image must be open for the effect to run, even if the action opens a new image during the action.

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2. Should Layers be Grayed for .bmp Files?
-

I use PSE2, and I'm trying to edit a .bmp file, but my layers palette is
completely grayed out. Why is that? Is editing .bmp files different in
PSCS?

There is more than one type of file that is called a bitmap, and a difference between bitmap mode and a bitmap file type. One type of bitmap is a bitmap mode file. It is a literal black-and-white file (a bit-depth of 1) where pixels are either on or off forming a black and white pixel grid (no grayscale). A .bmp file is referred to as a bitmap file as well. However, .bmp files can be RGB and Grayscale mode and can have 24-bit color. Traditionally, a .bmp file is considered as a PC file type — and it is not in bitmap mode. In some sense, all non-vector (fixed resolution) images are bitmaps in that they are mappings of bits. However, reference to a "bitmap" file is usually the .bmp file type or the bitmap mode. The Bitmap mode and .bmp file type are used for very different things.

If you have a black-and-white 1-bit bitmap, the file itself will be in bitmap Mode, and this will limit what you can do with the file pretty severely. The file will have only one layer and you will be limited to working with it in pure black or pure white. This seems to be what you are describing. This type of bitmap file will not support layers, which would explain why the layers options are grayed out. Elements (and Photoshop) are context sensitive: when a feature is not available in a particular mode, it is grayed out and rendered inaccessible.

When editing in PSCS or Elements, Bitmap mode files behave pretty much the same. To edit bitmap mode files using layers and other features, you will want to switch, at least temporarily, to another mode that supports these features (e.g., RGB or Grayscale). Be aware that changes you make that result in grayscale will be converted to a black and white pixel mapping if you switch back to bitmap mode. Additional layers will be flattened in the result.

Circling back to the idea that bitmap mode and bitmap file type are different things, you should be sure why are you working in Bitmap mode or with a .bmp file type, and that the mode and type are the result that you want. Usually bitmap mode files are used to store lineart. That is, if you are making a scan of a line-drawing, like pen and ink, you might make the scan in bitmap mode at a high resolution, 600- 3200dpi. The resulting bitmap will have the benefit of high resolution (so that curves and edges appear smooth and sharp, rather than blocky), and the high resolution will not carry the bulk that you have in a higher bit-count file. For example, if you scan line-art in a bitmap mode file at 1200 ppi, the file would be about 8 times the size as a grayscale file, and 24 times the size in 24-bit color. Likely you would want to lower the resolution of the 8-bit and 24-bit images as the information in those files will affect output differently than a bitmap mode file. As for storing images in .bmp mode, it is likely not the best choice. TIFF is more commonly used for storage and for print, and is likely more compatible with other programs and layout. In short, if you don't have a specific reason for using bitmap mode or .bmp file type, don't.

There is more information about file type, mode and bit-depth in the Hidden Power books. But if you have more questions about mode or file format that you don't think I answer here or there, I'd be glad to fill the information in.

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3. What Happened to the Hidden Power Website (hiddenelements.com)?
-

Your PE2 book website and forum website both proved valuable resources.
I have not been able to access the site recently. I do hope you plan to
update them to PE3. Will you, and if so when?

First, thanks for contacting me about the problem. The site has never been down, really, but apparently it was not visible to a select group of visitors due to some incompatabilities. The great disappearance of the Hidden Power website was temporary, and only affected people using particular browsers, and those using Norton Security.

I had spent several weeks earlier this year after the release of the new book updating the Hidden Power site for Elements 3, and then I added back the Elements 2 materials. Regretfully, at the same time, an error in the page code propagated and made the pages inaccessible to some visitors. Of course, many, like yourself, just assumed that the site was down. Meanwhile I could browse it just fine on my Mac and PC, and I had no idea anything was wrong -- till hits to the site started to drop.

You may have been visiting the site just after the change. I fixed the problem as soon as I was aware of it. The updates to the site are an ongoing thing at this point. For example, I converted all the back issues of the newsletter to HTML (from RTF and TXT files), and have finally had some time after fixing the troubles to add in some new tools (Infrared and the free tools). I continue to try to get others (authors, developers, knowledgeable Elements users) involved to help add content. This will hopefully lead to more content in the way of tools and more tutorials and articles.

I'm hoping the navigation of the site has been simplified by the changes. Certainly the look of the site has been changed: it is more text oriented. In the long run I will probably do something to enhance the look of it...I stripped out a lot of things attempting to find the underlying problem. At the same time, I also changed services to one that will allow me a little more flexibility in development (to automate download after purchases, for example). The drawback was that I had to rebuild everything from scratch (as the previous system was proprietary) and it took some time. I will eventually be setting up an area for tips and tutorials, which should be a big draw alongside the newsletter archive and tool downloads (I've got plans to continue to enhance the latter). The How to Run Actions in Adobe Photoshop Elements white paper is currently the only tutorial on the site. I have 20 or more articles that I hope to be converting over the next few months. I am open to suggestions.

I welcome interest from readers who want to help as well as anyone who wants to contribute tools and tutorials. I'm convinced this site can become the ultimate resource for Elements users. And please, if you see something wrong on the site, let me know!

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4. How Can I Make a JPEG Web Image Transparent?
-

I have a JPEG that is jagged around the edges and doesn't have a transparent background. I do not have the original psd file. Is there a way to resave this JPEG maybe to a GIF so I can have a transparent background while not loosing quality. I need this image for a website.

I think that you know by the way you asked the question that the result would be better to do from the original image, because the JPEG compression will affect the result. There is also a question of resolution, and whether you have what you need already separated in the original. However, since you asked this way I'll approach the answer as if going back to an original isn't an option.

JPEG images will not support transparency. You can make them appear to be transparent by matching background colors, but sometimes you will need genuine transparency, where you can see through certain areas of your image to whatever is in the background. In this case you can use either GIF or PNG images, as both support web transparency. PNG offers some advanced features, but those files may be less compatible with certain browsers. GIF image transparency is perhaps less sophisticated, but it is more broadly compatible with browsers.

You can convert from the JPEG file to GIF to create transparency for the web. You will have a little bit of a challenge creating the transparency depending on the content of the image. From what you describe the image is already somewhat degraded, either by the compression or lack of resolution. Making the image partially transparent will likely not solve these problems, and you may need other corrective intervention.

As far as making part of the image transparent, try this:

1. Open the image.
2. [I assume the image is flattened] double-click the Background in the layers palette.
3. Make a selection of the part of the image that you want to make transparent.
4. Press Delete. This will remove the selected area.
5. Save using Save for Web, and use GIF and Transparency options.

The problem you will likely run into here is that the selection will not be tight to the object. You may want to fiddle with the selection using various means of selection adjustment (anything from starting over to using expand/contract). If there are drop shadows, you might want to consider recreating them...drop shadows in transparency situations can be tricky. I have an article on my Photoshop website (http://ps6.com) that needs some updating for the examples, but discusses transparency for print and the web in detail. You may want to explore the tutorial links there.

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5. Midrange Digital Camera Recommendation?
-

In the last issue of the newsletter you made a recommendation for
a budget digital camera (Kodak Easyshare DX7630). Do you have a
mid-range recommendation?

My concerns for a mid-range camera would include flexibility and durability. The difficulty here is that you can either get a high-end point-and-shoot, or a lower-end SLR. Anyone spending mid-range money is likely more serious about digital photography, either that, or they just have money to burn. I really think that in either case I would recommend the Canon Digital Rebel. My reasoning is simple: it is the lowest cost digital SLR from a major manufacturer, and it gets good reviews just about everywhere. I don't own this camera, but I've used one. Having an SLR will allow you grow with your experience...you can add lenses to suit your shooting needs, work in various manual modes, and do all the stuff that you might with a high-end analog camera in digital for a comparable price. The 6.3 megapixel image is what I calculated and continue to believe is equivalent of 35 mm film.

Here is a review (not my own): http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/canon/ eos_300d-review/index.shtml

Some notes on the article: very nicely considered and complete. I have no real gripes with the content whatsoever.

Again, keep in mind digital camera shopping is not a one-size-fits-all sort of thing. You really need to get out to the stores and hold the darned cameras in your hand. The feel of my Sigma would turn off a lot of people who want a pocket camera. Those with big hands will want a bigger camera to provide some grip...those who don't want a lot of bulk would get frustrated lugging a camera bag instead of having a sleek camera they can really slip in their pocket.

Though I have only had my hands on a Digital Rebel for a few shots, I found it easy to use and would consider it an infinitely better choice for those who are turned off to digital because they like the options offered by their analog SLR. This camera bridges the gaps in price and performance, as well as in options. However, take your own personal needs into account when shopping for a camera. You may find something better for you.

Shop for the Canon Digital Rebel on Amazon

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6. Are You Nuts, Richard?
-

[To preface this, I get a lot of email, and I try and answer it all. Most of the time it is a simple query, and sometimes they are complements or other comments that I can only say 'thanks' to. Sometimes people get a little peeved over having difficulty with a tool installation (which is understandable). And other times, and thankfully rarely, I get accused of terrible Internet schemes that I have planned to bilk cash from people. Some have suggested I was selling books or software that I knew didn't work, that I posted techniques that can't possibly do what they say, or that I was being greedy by selling tools rather than giving all of them away. Once someone accused me of writing a bad technique that was in another book by another author that I had absolutely nothing to be with. In all, even if I engaged in a small percentage of the things that people have accused me of, I would gain a bad reputation mighty quickly, and that might not work well for sales. Almost anything can be twisted. This may be another of those situations where you can please some of the people some of the time...]

Are you people nuts? What kind of response is this?!? I complain that
the CD fails to install and that the book and CD give conflicting instruction
(the CD says the password is on page 23) and you send my message
back to me (albeit promptly) with a salutation of "Enjoy" without answering
the question?!

The email that you received was an automated response simply confirming your question was submitted. Sorry that it offended you. There is no team of "people" manning the email — just lil ol' me. While it would be great to have that kind of time, I am not sitting in front of my computer 24 hours a day waiting for the next question to arrive. I used an automated response to let you know I received a message...it wasn't meant as an answer to the question, and I don't believe it poses as such. The confirmation says: "You sent the following Request to Richard Lynch from the hiddenelements.com web site." and : "All attempts will be made to fill popular requests and answer promptly (if that is required)." [This particular submission system was on the old site and is not currently in use, but it will be restored shortly.

I don't know that an auto-response warrants your accusation about being nuts. Lots of web sites use auto-responders for very similar purposes...The hope is to let visitors know that request are received and have not fallen into some black hole. As finicky as the web is, you can't really be sure that submisions are received without a confirmation. It also puts a little pressure on me to send an answer.

In any case, I have read your email. Sorry you had trouble with the installation. You said that there was something wrong with the CD. It is highly unlikely that the CD is bad, and even less likely in your situation as you suggest you were able to read the installation instructions from the CD. If you can open that file on the CD, chances are the CD and the files on it are fine. Actually, if you entered the password and a black screen flashes, chances are that the tools are already installed. This is the most common problem that people have with the installation: it goes too quickly. Have you checked in Elements to see if the tools are there?

About the page number — it was my idea, admittedly, but the publisher's execution. I asked if they could put a page number in the readme on the CD. When I asked, the book was not yet paginated so I couldn't tell what page the password was on. You see, the publisher creates the CD...they also do the layout for the book, and I have no way of knowing what will fall on which page. It is likely that different departments at the publisher make the CD and layout, so there isn't even a person at the publishing house that is really to blame. As it turns out, someone doing the CD materials probably got a page proof, counted in 23 pages from the front of the book and determined the password was on "page 23". Regretfully the pages were not numbered from the beginning of the book. The password is in the introduction, which I suggest that everyone using the book read: It has valuable information, like the password. Apparently you found it, however.

If you would like to tell me exactly what the instructions were that made you say: "I have never encountered a more screwed up set of instructions to install a CD." I'd be glad to know. The instructions for installing, from what I understand, should pretty much say: "double-click the installer and let it do its thing". Your one need was to find the password, which you did successfully — even though it was on a different page than noted on the CD. If the tools are already installed and you just haven't looked for them, perhaps the installer isn't so screwed up after all...

Thanks for writing.

 

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Short Answers
----------------------


-
1. An Elements 3 Book?
-

> I am working with your Hidden Power book
> and the tools for Elements 2. What about
> Elements 3.0?

The book and tools have been updated for Elements 3: See the Elements 3 book on Amazon

-
2. How to Use Duotone Previews
-

> On page 127, The Hidden Power of Photoshop
> Elements 2, I click on the
> Duotone_Preview_Bar.psd I get a large solid
> color bar come up in sepia or pantone
> color. What am I supposed to do with this?
> I already know what color I'm using. If I go
> into the Hidden Power tools and click on the
> Duotone Power Bar a bar comes up in the image
> I have on the desktop showing the gradient from
> dark to light color. What I'm I supposed to do
> with this?

I am pretty sure this is discussed in the book, also on 127. The PSD file is for manually testing gradients to be sure they are helping you create the kind of tone/ color response that you want in your duotones. You can use it to see a preview of the smoothness of the tone and color gradient in a way that will not be apparent in the image. See figure 5.16 on page 122. The testing should show a smooth gradient in just about every case (excepting special effects).

The automated tool I included creates the bar right in your image as a preview. the removal tool takes it out once you have checked the duotone. The PSD and automated tool are two different methods to check the same thing: that your duotone is working with, rather than against, the tone of your image.

-
3. Installing the CD Images
-

> When I click on the examples on the CD, I get
> neither explanation nor installation, just the
> Control Panel listing of the files. Can you
> help me to get this up and running so I can
> begin to work with the book?

Please read the introduction to the book where you will find out more about the tools and installation. The book is the explanation for the tools; installation is a matter of kicking off the installer. This installation will not install the images/ examples. You only need these example files to follow along with the exercises in the book. Just access them as you need them by opening with Elements from the CD.

-
4. Compare Mend and Healing
-

> How do PE3's Healing Brush and your Mend Tool
> relate to each other [basically duplicate,
> overlap, have similar and different qualities]?

The Healing tool in Elements 3 and Hidden Power Mend (for Elements 1, 2 and 3) do a very similar thing. Healing will be quicker and perhaps less flexible than Mend. Mend will create a set of layers with the tone and color changes so that you can adjust them individually--a flexibility that Healing does not provide. I built the Mend tool for Elements 1 and 2 users because they didn't have the Healing tool, like you do in Elements 3. I am not pushing the Mend tool on PE3 users as they have Healing, but it can be educational and interesting. The results compared side-by-side will be similar, but Mend will help you understand how the Healing tool works. I think Mend is better (my humble opinion) because it will allow more adjustments and fine-tuning after the application because it leaves the correction layers as components. Healing hides all that from the user.

If you are asking how it works and how I figured it out: Duplicating the Healing tool took a few weeks - and I figured out most of it in my sleep. Same with CMYK separations. I am more of a technician than an artisan - at least when it comes to processing images. How did I figure the 150 steps? I'm not really sure...but likely it was one result at a time. How does it work? It compares color and tone and texture in the sample to the target and makes a blend. Mostly it substitutes in the color and texture of the sample into an average of the tone of the area.

-
5. Elements 3 Tool Upgrade
-

> Where can I buy and download the Elements 3 tools
> you mentioned in your February newsletter?

The upgrade tools are for sale at Sybex. You can get the tools whether or not you have the first book (for Elements 2). I recommend having one or the other, however, as the book tells how to use the tools.
http://www.sybex.com/sybexbooks.nsf/booklist/5028

-
6. Installing Tools in Elements 2
-

> I followed the steps for tool installation [PSE2] exactly and
> got an error that I could not write to the installation
> drive. I don't know what's wrong. Here's what I did: I
> double-clicked the installer, clicked OK on the introduction,
> chose the HPPSElements2 (D) disc with the browser button, then
> entered the password, and pressed extract. That's when
> I got the error. What's up?

Seems like you chose to try and install to the CD - which you can't write to - instead of your harddrive. You are not trying to locate where the tools are installing FROM, but where you want them to install TO. When you browse for an install folder, look for your Elements program folder - most likely on the C drive. The default Adobe installation folder for the program is C:\Program Files\Adobe\PhotoshopElements2 for PC and Applications:Adobe Photoshop Elements 2 for Mac.

-
7. Error in Color and Luminosity
-

> The extracting luminosity from color directions in steps
> 4 & 6 have two layers named luminosity. I believe step
> 4 should be named Composite.

I think you are right. Thanks! I'll get it in the errata for the book.

-
8. Highlight and Shadow Instead of Curves?
-

> The inclusion of "Shadows/Highlights" to adjust lighting
> in PE 3 seems to me a much easier and quicker way of
> improving many images over the previously necessary
> use of Curves, etc. For example, the exercise on pp.22-24
> of you book on Elements 3 still bases the image's
> improvement on Curves; however, in experimenting with
> that image my eye seems to see about the same level
> of improvement using "Shadows/Highlights" as with
> Curves, and it certainly is easier and quicker for me
> to use. Please tell me, am I missing something or
> superficially making changes that would be better done
> otherwise?

My book is not made of 'easier and quicker' solutions; it is about controlling your images. Some tools work better in some cases, and it is rarely the quicker one. If I have access to both tools, it is likely I would choose Curves every time. In this case it may come down to the way you like to work. I think Shadow and Highlight can work on that image, but I don't know that is it specifically "better". It certainly would not be better targeted. The point of the book is to demonstrate specific tools - especially those that the user otherwise does not have. With curves, you have specific control. With Highlight and Shadow, you have the limited control Adobe allows you. You can't really pinpoint a range for the highlight/shadow tool as you can with Curves. That Shadow and Highlight works for a particular image is not surprising, but it doesn't, from my perspective, dictate that it needs to be covered or recommended. I don't think anyone can envision exactly how that tool is affecting the image. Part of the idea behind the book is picking a tool set that can be used in any situation, and limiting that tool set for simplicity, power and control. I like knowing what is happening. With masking and curves or other means, I can specifically control a range of tones. With Shadow/Highlight I guess I could make a correction, but I would not be sure what was happening or why it worked. Curves remain my tool of choice for this type of adjustment.

-
9. Missing Steps on Page 59
-

> On p. 59 the instructions say to "repeat steps 5-11".
> On p. 58 there are only 7 steps, so I'm wondering if
> 4 steps were left out on p. 58

No steps were left out. In editorial (after the book left my hands), the steps 8-11 were changed into bullets. This may have been because of formatting I applied accidentally or some other error. Who knows. In any case, the steps are the bullets. If you number the bullets continuing from the previous section (which ends at 7) you'll find the missing steps. I'll add that to the errata.

--
10. Isolating the Flower
--

> On p. 58 (HPPE3) I don't see how you isolated the
> flower of the lily.

Following the steps for that particular exercise, the flower is not separated or isolated. The information you see as an additional layer is painted with a tool in a layer above the image, as I believe is suggested by the copy and captions in the book. As I painted, I followed the shape of the flower. The Figure in the book attempts to capture the idea that the information was added in a layer.

--
11. Converting to Grayscale
--

> Ref page 131 (hppe2) Why do you have to convert
> the image to grayscale? Can you not work with colors.
> You say duplicate he channels. Do I go into Hidden
> Power Tools Separations and select the Split RGB
> channels? You do not say to do this in the Manuel.
> How do I get the channels?

This example has to do with channel calculations. Channels are usually considered as black-and-white representations of a given color component (as explained more fully in the book's early chapters). I guess you could work with color, but frankly I would have some difficulty myself predicting a result because of the level of complexity. The idea of calculations is usually to re-define a specific channel or achieve a grayscale result. My question to you would be: "what are you trying to achieve?"

The book is cumulative...in other words, it assumes that you understand earlier concepts before moving on. In this case, you may extract channels in many different ways: Split RGB, Split CMYK, Split Luminosity and Color, etc. you could also make channels from selections, hue/saturation results, and more. The examples in the book provide...examples. Your creative sense may take you quite a lot further than the simple examples I show. I do believe that this particular section of the book says that the variations are too many to cover.

What you want to calculate depends on what you are trying to accomplish. The book is suggesting a general procedure. If I tell you specifically which channels, it is no longer general procedure. We come back to the question I ask above. If you let me know specifically what you are trying to accomplish, I can get you a better procedure.

--
12. Do You Answer Email?
--

> If you are not going to answer my inquiry
> please e-mail back and let me know if you
> are not going to waste your time.

I attempt to answer every question that I get, and I answer most promptly. The answers you see in the newsletter are usually a collection of the most interesting of these; all have already been sent in reply to the questions. Please allow some time for response, up to about a week. If I haven't answered it by then, I may have lost it in the shuffle. If you consider that I have some 30,000 readers (that is guessing, and only pertains the the Hidden Power books), you might see how it can become difficult to answer everyone's email promptly. Most authors don't even bother. Another way to get answers is to visit the forums, which frankly aren't getting the kind of use I would have expected. Try: http://hiddenelements.com/foruminfo.html

--
13. Elements 3 Book Light on Color Management
--

> I like your book, but it is somewhat light on
> color management.

As an old-timer in digital output, I tend more to the school of Dan Margulis in that I got results before profiles. I think users sometimes get bogged down in the weight of color management and I went "light" on purpose in the book...though 'light' in this case is actually pretty heavy (and likely heavier than just about any other book on Elements) considering the user has only one choice to make in the color management dialog. The book shows how to do things with a profile, rather than what Adobe would allow on the surface. I appreciate that many use color management with success, but there are only so many colors CMYK can represent in the end, and good practice and correction will likely get you more consistent and predictable results than those obtained with more invasive color management. If photographic results are really imperative, it may be better to use a photographic process (CRT or output to film).

--
14. Will You Sell My Tools?
--

> I have some ideas for tools. Would you be willing to sell them off your site?

The short answer is: Sure. The longer answer is: I am not sure. It would depend on whether I was going to be doing all the development based on the idea and what you thought was both a fair price and fair share. I hesitate to ask for ideas as I have many of my own that I really don't have time to get to, and on the off chance that someone else had the same idea, they might later think that I had stolen it. In another case you might think you have a great idea, and I might not see it that way because it either doesn't fit with the quality of tools I like to present, so I might not be interested in including it with the materials on the site; I don't want to get people angry by turning down their ideas. Sooo, a much more realistic answer is: if you have a finished product many people are going to be interested in (or already have been), and it isn't something that overlaps Hidden Power tools, I would be glad to include it in the Hidden Power download area. I would also consider short articles. But please be aware I reserve the right to reject absolutely anything, and that I have a list a mile (ok, half-mile) long already of things I want to do. I welcome anyone to discuss their ideas in the forums (see: http:// elementsusers.com).

--
15. Calculations Setup
--

> In HPPE2, page 131, Calculations setup. I attempted
> to do this with an image of mine and couldn't get it
> to work. What am I trying to accomplish? Admittedly
> I didn't try using the example image.

The idea of this section is to explain calculations in preparation for the CMYK separation — which you are approaching. If you want to do something interesting with calculations, try the manual sharpening...The idea is basically to look at a means of combining elements in your images. I believe the flower image used in these diagrams is included with the book, on the CD.

--
16. Secure PDFs From Elements
--

> The March issue of Shutterbug magazine has a good review
> of Elements 3. In it the reviewer states (on page 61) that
> you can save your image to a PDF file and then set the
> parameters so when you email it, the recipient can't modify
> or print the image. Something is evidently adjusted in the
> print driver? How do I do that?

Well, you can do this, but I don't think it is an Elements feature. PDF files can be protected from printing or editing, and that would be an option in Adobe Acrobat or Distiller. Probably even in files created through PDF online services. This can be set when printing, or after the file has been created, but from what I know you do that in Acrobat, not Elements.

That said...I wouldn't be too dependent on the security for PDFs being an ultimate safety valve for your images. A simple screen shot will make an image editable once again.

--
17. Defining Modes
--

> I've got a few mode questions. Is Color: Is it the
> same as Hue? Is Saturation the intensity of a Hue?
> Is tone the same as brightness? If so, where does
> luminosity fit in?

Modes are all defined in the back of the Hidden Power books in the section that describes Modes. Color mode affects changes in hue and saturation, not just hue...hue is hue only. Saturation is definitely the intensity of the hue, yes. If you put a drop of blue dye in a little water and then add more water, you keep the hue but decrease the intensity/saturation. If you take the blue dye solution and add a drop of black dye, the hue and intensity stay the same but the solution is a darker tone. Luminosity is tone considered outside of color: it is what is left over if you remove the color. It is a component of luminosity and color separation.

--
18. Tips and Answers for Elements 2
--

> I assume that unless you indicate otherwise, your
> tips/answers are applicable to all versions of PSE
> and Hidden Power.

It is funny...I know most books are version specific, and sometime can't help but be because of programming changes. However, techniques I use rely less on tools than technique. That is...just about everything I do should be applicable to any version of Elements. The tools and steps might be slightly different because of changes to the program, but the concepts remain the same. Just to say, most tools that I make are compatible with Elements 1, 2 and 3, and work on Mac and PC...it is the way I like to work.

--
19. It Takes a Week to Get the Tools
--

> Your order pages say it can take up to a week to get
> your tools by email. That seems like a long time to
> get an e-mail product.

Up until recently, the online ordering of tools was not automated. It takes either money or time to work out an automated solution, and I chose to keep prices low. Mend and Dynamic Image tools were personalized for each user. On the other hand, it is impossible for me to provide daily service — it would significantly raise the cost of the tool to have to fill orders every day. I will likely soon have all the tools available for immediate download. Check out the listing: http://hiddenelements.com/ downloads.html

--
20. Power Tools Deleted My Effects
--

> I attempted to install the Elements Powertools from
> the disk included with the Hidden Power of Photoshop
> Elements 3 book. Not only did the install not work,
> but it seems to have deleted almost all of the
> Styles and Effects previously installed in Elements.

Actually, if you are not seeing previously installed items, the installation likely worked as planned and you need to be patient and wait for the menus to rebuild. Please allow about 5 minutes with Elements and the effects menu open to let the program rebuild the cache. You'll see things slowly start to fill back in on the menus. This process is a LOT slower than the installation itself. My tools will never do anything to your computer or Elements; the installation frankly isn't complicated enough to cause errors.

--
21. Dynamic Image Tool for Black-and-White
--

> I am working on black-and-white images. I was
> using the Dynamic Image tool, but I am not sure
> about where to start to "dynamic image" it!
> Can you help?

My standard color correction routine will actually work to improve the dynamic range of black-and-white images. Depending on the image, Dynamic Image will work too, but it may make some images contrasty. You have the most latitude in converting to black-and-white from color images, but as you will be scanning images (I suggest scanning to RGB and converting in case there is yellowing) from B&W, you will have a little less latitude.

If I could get a sample, I could probably make better suggestions.

I did read the request: "Here's my request. I am going to start photographing old black and white family pictures. (My scanner isn't as good as my Nikon 8m Coolpix.) I can shoot in RAW and I've almost got everything I need to double polarize the shots. But if they are black and white shots, I'm not sure the tools I use the most (see above) are what are best to bring out the best in the images. I realize I'll probably need to touch up the pictures first. I like the restoration part. Thankfully, they aren't in too bad of shape. Not sure about where to start to "black and white correct and dynamic image" it!"

however, I am not sure exactly what it is that you are requesting. What do you want a tool to do for you?


-----------------
OPINIONS
-----------------

This Opinions section is a new section of the Hidden Power Newsletter, where I snip out a few voiced opinions from my emails
and other places. Be heard by sending your opinion to me. Be heard by potential book buyers, and post your reviews and opinions of Hidden Power on Amazon.com by writing a review. If you like the Hidden Power book and tools, and newsletter, this will help assure that I keep them coming.

--
I got your Infrared tool and it is really fabulous! I've had a few other plugins (more expensive ones) and I don't have the control or results I get with this. Good job!

--
As a new purchaser of Hidden Power of Elements 3 and am overwhelmingly impressed. Keep up the good work, and subscribe me to the newsletter!

--
Just bought Hidden Power for PSE3, and love it so far. It's like that first week in a good college class when you look through the textbook and can't wait to understand (and yet can't imagine ever understanding) the stuff towards the back.

--
Regarding Hidden Power of Elements 3: Love the book!
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!

--
Are you people nuts?

--------------------------------------------------------
Do let me know about questions and comments, and let me know what you
think about the newsletter. rl@ps6.com
--------------------------------------------------------

Brought to you by Richard Lynch in conjunction with The Hidden power
of Photoshop Elements 2 and The Hidden Power of Photoshop Elements 3

http:// hiddenelements.com

Copyright © 2005 Richard Lynch
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